The name given to the tight trousers worn by some Regency gentlemen, such as the notorious Beau Brummell and his ‘dandy’ followers, as they showed off their leg muscles.
Take six pounds of good pork, free from skin and grisles and fat, cut it very small, and beat it in a mortar till it is very fine; shred six pounds of beef-suet very fine, free from all skin; shred it fine as possible; take a good deal of sage, wash it very clean, pick off the leaves, and shred it very fine; spread your meat on a clean dresser or table and shake the sage all over it, about three large spoonfuls; shred the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine and throw over, with as many sweet herbs, when shred fine, as will fill a large spoon; grate two large nutmeg over, throw over two tea spoonfuls of pepper, a large spoonful of salt, then throw over the suet, and mix it all well together. Put it down close in a pot; when you use them, roll them up with as much egg as will make them roll smooth. Make them the size of a sausage and fry them in butter, or good dripping. Be sure it be hot before you put them in, and keep rolling them about. When they are thorough hot, and of a fine light-brown, they are enough. You may chop this meat very fine, if you don’t like it beat; Veal eats well done thus, or veal and pork together. You may clean some guts and fill them. Hannah Glasse
JL Note – we’ve made these a few times and have found that we prefer them if they are cooked in the oven. We don’t add much suet either.
Koobbe (bread stuffed with meat)
We have been favoured with a receipt for this savoury preparation, which, at sea, in camp, on Indian hunting excursions, and long marches in India, is found to be very convenient. Make a dough with yeast as for bread; when yeast cannot be obtained, use whites of eggs or milk. Roll out the paste very thick, and wrap meat into it (fat meat is best) of any kind, cut and seasoned in any way that is most convenient or agreeable. This dish may be either boiled or baked. This species of camp-cookery is carried to some perfection in India. It is applicable to all kinds of game, poultry and meat. Fowls thus cooked, may be stuffed with hard eggs, chopped parsley, oysters, &c; veal with forcemeat; goose, pig and duck, wither with apples or onions, as a sauce is wanted. The stuffed things must be well skewered, or sewed before being put into the dough, which forms a crust about the meat; thus combining bread, meat, and sauce in one dish. Margaret Dods
JL Note: We have made a variation on this, making rolls and filling them with cooked spiced minced meat, then pinching the tops shut before baking. This way can also use veggie mince – not very Victorian, we know, but a good alternative.